222 Thompson Street
New York City
Tel.212 420-7878
Cuban Cuisine Par-Excellence in New York City
Usually a restaurant's name gives us a clue about the food that is served at the locale, and the kind of ambiance we can expect to experience there. And as it so happens at Cuba restaurant, we get succulent true Cuban food with all the embellishment of Cubania--Cuban essence. Beatriz de Armas, chef-owner, and Havana born, ( who was mentored by her grandmother), is the driving force here, And along with her professional staff they have created a time tested super-delicious Cuban cuisine at Cuba restaurant in New York City---- garnering great acclaim from locals and foodies at this exciting Cubano-Nuevo Latino eatery, and receiving excellent reviews from the mainstream media as well. Cuba restaurant at 222 Thompson Street in the Village is going strong, and celebrating its ten years of operation in pleasing its customers. Recently, fashion guru Tim Gunn of Project Runway raved personally to me about the cuisine as "exquisite". And Cuban tourists visiting the restaurant by happenstance mentioned that the live band played Cuban songs very well and that the food was the real deal. There is a lively, and fun Cuban essence here that enhances the culinary experience
Upon entering you get a feel of Cuba right away. the medium size dining room has a soothing décor that is traditionally rustic Cuban and elegant --- exuding a romantic vibe at the same time. The confines are relaxing as good Cuban songs flow from the sound system.
Sophisticated Cuban customers hang out here with European Nobility, and Hollywood celebrities. Cuban art is prevalent on the walls and an exotic warmth permeates the premises. .In the center of the main room is a beautiful small bar designed by the owner Beatriz De Armas with seating for about seven patrons. On a summer day in July I ventured to the restaurant to sample their cuisine.
The faded red brick side walls, are welcoming. And the wait staff is friendly. I take a seat at the long white leather banquets with dark wooden tables and get ready to sample traditional Cuban fare. There are three other dining rooms including the Hemingway lounge downstairs with a second handsome bar and more original Cuban art. The lounge is a sheer joy for a cozy candle-light gathering or a sizable private party. One way to get started here as I did, is with the classic drink Cuba Vieja, or Old Cuban, created on the island of Cuba during the early 1930,s by Cuban and Spanish club members at the Centro Asturiano Club in Havana, the Old Cuban is the brainchild of a Cuban cantinero- bartender, Constantino Ribailagua at the Floridita. He also worked for the Spanish casino and created the cocktail to remember with nostalgia the prosperous period in Cuba known as
the Dance of the Millions , The Old Cuban is a excellent classic cocktail of dark-age Havana Club Seven year Estate Age or Dark Age Bacardi rum, Cointreau, lime,cane sugar. Champagne, and Mint leaves. It's a lovely drink, a winner and a nostalgic delight. I ordered it seating with the owner Beatriz who was reminising about her grandmother who was so influential in her life. I enjoyed it with some Tostones Rellenos; Three very tasty green plantains stuffed with shrimp in a sofrito sauce garnished with watercress. The Old Cuban cocktail also complimented the house made croquettes that were very tasty as well.
At the Cuba restaurant strong excellent classy cocktails are in big time, I also tried two other famous drinks, and they were just as fabulous. The Millionaire, commemorates the Dance of the Millions, made with Bacardi Silver, Champagne, Cointreau, and Seven floating premier rosada blueberries. And the Old Havana. Try the other cocktails created on the island of Cuba like the Mojito, Daiquiri, The Millionaire, Pina Colada, Presidente, Cuba Libre, Mulata, Hemingway or Vaca Gorda. There is an array of about twelve appetizers to sample like the Papa Rellena, Camarones Al Ajillo, or Pinchos de Pollos. to enjoy with libation from the bar. And the urbane company at the bar is first rate.
Mixologist Juan Igua.with ten years of experience working the bar crafts distinctive powerful quaffs using dark aged Cuban rums like Bacardi 151 and other fine rums from Mexico and Haiti and other fine liquors like Vodka, Tequilas and Bourbons, Sherry and wines, to create some bomb-worthy cocktail concoction that will have you spinning like a Turkish dervish. Cuba restaurant is a premier destination for Spanish Sherrys. It carries a good stock from the briny Tio Pepe fino and Lustau Manzanillos, to the nutty Amontillado, and oloroso, to a great sweet Pedro Ximenez. Sherry is a really food friendly wine that goes well withTapas--appetizers and salads like Grilled Octopus- Pulpo a la Parrilla served at Cuba.
High drama continues with more beautiful food presentations that bring more Cuba to the table with a phenomenal Cuban Sandwich and Cuban Tamales. The restaurant's cuisine will amaze you. The cuisine here is as authentic as the national hero of Cuba, Jose Marti.
The grandma worthy Empanadas of beef picadillo, or manchego cheese and spinach are expertly fried, delicate, crispy and seasoned with garlic, roasted green peppers, olives and raisins --oozing authentically Cuban flavors that would drive Fidel Castro mad. And other delicious starters include Calamares con Tamarindo crispy calamari with cherry tomatoes in a Tamarind vinaigrette.
Whether is Paella,or Arroz con Pollo, Chef Mario Garcia presents excellent eclectic dishes that are cooked with great regards to authentic ethnic characteristics of traditional Cuban cuisine And keeping the flavors intact as handed down by family. For dinner I had the Lechon Asado: The Roast suckling pig in a garlic-lime mojo sauce, served on a bed of yucca. the dish is a perfectly orchestrated Cuban culinary song of deliciousness. Cuban cuisine par-excellence in New York City.
The other dish I tried was the Masitas de Puerco al Jerez: The spiced morsels of pork, onion marmalade, garlic-lime mojo and cubed small potatoes served with a bountiful amount of moros,( a traditional black rice with black beans) is on point. The small size tender Masitas of pork cooked to perfection has you reaching for more and more until your plate is bare.
Another dish that is worthy is the Pato con Salsa de Tamarindo ; Duck leg confit served with sautéed spinach, oyster mushrooms, a sweet plantain puree. in a tamarind glaze. and a ropa vieja cigar. It is sure to please. The tender leg of duck was appropriately cooked and so succulent with the aroma of exotic latin spices generating great flavor Chef Mario Garcia succeeds greatly with this creation, with dishes infused with authentic ingredients, and fanciful culinary explorations. Or try the Vaca Frita, another signature dish of the house. Pan fried, shredded flank steak, tender and juicy, served with garlic mojo, onions, parsley, and lime. Chef Garcia shines all the way-- he knows his kitchen and has got it all together,
Cuba restaurant has a smart selection of wines; Marquez de Riscal, reserva white and red, Baron de Ona reserva, Anciano reserva, Red. Tio Pepe Sherry, Lustau fino Sherry, and Amontillados. And more of a selection of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blancs from Chile, and good Malbec from Argentina.
I love finishing a memorable Cuban meal with a great tasting dessert and a great Sherry. The restaurant menu carries an assortment of pastries and cakes. I opted for the Tres Leche: The moist and light sponge cake made with three types of milks, regular, condensed, and evaporated, infused with coconut, pineapple and blended with a dark rum was spot on. The glass of sherry Lustau Amontillado I requested complimented the dessert superbly for a fabulous finale.
If you follow food trends you know Nuevo cubano cuisine is all the rage. and Cuba restaurant in the Village is that and more. a happy venue for the young, glamorous, glitterati and lovers of Cuban traditional and new cubano cuisne, salsa music, Cuban art and Cuban cocktails,--- frothy and exotic. Chef-owner Beatriz de Armas knows her craft and heritage well: her cuisine is tried and true and speaks volumes of her culinary and cultural richness, experiences and background. Cuba restaurant is a hospitable favorite destination for locals, gourmands, music lovers, and art lovers, -- a special Cuban oasis in the city where great food, good music, and fine art converge with great success. Rating: ***** EXCELLENT
Baron Corso
Baron Corso de Palenzuela von Habsburg, International Restaurant Critic, Chef, Cononsieur of Chocolate,Beer, and Wine, Has written for Gourmet, Country and Abroad. Edible. Gusto, Millionaire, and many publications. He can be reached at 845 706-1244
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