Sunday, June 7, 2009



Depuy Canal House Restaurant
Chef John Novi ---Proprietor

103 Main Street



High Falls, New York, 12440
Tel: 845-687-7700
http://www.depuycanalhouse.net/

Depuy Canal House Restaurant--Forty Memorable Years And Still Going Strong

Chef John Novi: Icon and Master Of Culinary Ambrosia

The Hudson Valley has a score of good restaurants with exciting cuisine, but Depuy Canal House, with over forty years in operation under
Chef-Owner John Novi invests this cozy and beautiful restaurant with bonhomie, gaiety, and an unassailable consistency in lustrous, excellent cuisine. And everyone is welcomed effusively. IF THERE IS A CHEF TO BE NAMED FATHER OF NEW AMERICAN CUISINE IN THE HUDSON VALLEY, CHEF NOVI SHINES AS THE BRIGHTEST CULINARY STAR. A TRUE MASTER OF CULINARY AMBROSIA. He started it all, with what he terms "Creative American Cuisine", forty glorious years ago at this location in High Falls, New York. What is of great appeal to gourmand and local good folks alike is that the 40th Anniversary celebration that will be ongoing throughout the year will give us all the pleasure to savor some of the most creative dishes prepared by Chef Novi at the helm. Since very early on I have always enjoyed the food served here. And I keep going back for more.

Depuy Canal house, built in 1797, is one of Ulster County's most beloved historic landmarks. It has been a fine dining restaurant since June, 1969. The two hundred and ten year old structure and tavern,
what is now the dining room, got a much needed buff as did most of the building and the surrounding landscape. Also housed in the lower part of the building are two other eateries: Chefs On Fire, and Amici Sushi Bar that are also the brainchild of Chef Novi. Each serves exceptional food as well. As it was in the beginning so it is now: Chef Novi has a penchant for creating dishes that incorporate exotic ingredients not so well known in the Hudson Valley. Chef Novi's message for Creative American Cuisine is not only about locally grown vegetables on our plates but also free-range chicken, grass fed beef, and wild caught fish and game. It doesn't stop there. Many of the restaurant's fresh herbs and spices used to liven up each dish are organic as well. Chef Novi is a strong advocate of growing global ingredients in the fertile Hudson Valley as well.

He has been tantalizing our palates with his style of culinary artistry and magic for the benefit and delight of all who venture to dine there. And he has not lost his down to earth inspiration that makes his food stand out above other chefs. And for area
foodies on the prowl for their next find, the restaurant has become a destination, because the culinary concept at Depuy House is gastronomic romance, and health is the hook, and freshness is the game that Chef Novi seduces us with. Chef Novi creates a new universe of culinary wonders--mouthwatering treats that marvel and satiate the senses.

Depuy Canal House, a three story architectural beauty, constructed of field stone and hardwood timber has four dining rooms that will seem pleasant to those of us who enjoy that old time feel about historic inns that feature a restaurant. And your dining pleasure begins once you're welcomed by a dedicated, attentive and gracious staff member like Mary Brodkin, and shown to a spacious table in a romantically lighted very comfortable room and start nibbling on the complimentary tasty bread while you peruse the fine wine list. One evening in June I stopped by to sample some of the dishes offered.

A festive way to begin at Depuy Canal House is to try the Crawfish and Shrimp Cajun Bowl: A regional hearty broth from Louisiana made with artichoke, red potatoes, corn and an abundant amount of fresh Crawfish and Shrimp made with spicy beer. Here is a genuine and flavorful dish that is sure to please. Or try the Soupe Au Pistou; A seasonal vegetarian stew not to be ignored.
A big brodo of fresh vegetables all locally grown like zucchini, leeks, peas, carrots, fennel, asparagus and yellow squash that will leave you thinking that it was made specially for you. And be sure to try the Carrot Pasta Reels with Ricotta: A delicious dish of steamed pasta on tomato sauce with fresh basil: It is a Hudson Valley Blue Ribbon Winner very popular at the restaurant.
Or go for the whole petite trout or finger smelts that are accompanied by a piquant cayenne or chipotle sauce. Both these small dishes spell endless pleasure--that is --you are sure to return and delight in their flavor again and again.

At Depuy Canal House organic vegetables and meats are very much in use. Even the best area restaurants rarely focus on organic and sustainability at this high level. A lot of stock is justifiably put into sustainable ingredients. Apples supplied by Sun Frost Market, Rum from Tulhilltown Distillery in Gardner, Black and Red Currant from Greg Quinn Farms in Dutchess County, and Chef' Novi's own Garlic Mustard Greens harvested from behind the Depuy Canal House. At the restaurant, Chef Novi embraces the interdependent nature of this quintessential process of his culinary art every day. The cornucopia of fresh ingredients that Chef Novi brings from farm to table is what you'll savor with every dish he conjures up. Although trained in precision classic cooking techniques while in sojourn in Europe, his other nouvelle approach of dishes like Beef Short Ribs and Andouille spicy sausage and a light aromatic two bean Gumbo can make you swoon to new flavors. Another exceptional dish not seen in the Valley includes Quail stuffed with Duck Sausage accompanied with Butternut Squash and Spinach, topped with a White Truffle Sauce and covered with a finely delicate and tasty Sfogliatelle pastry. A nouvelle variation that is a true winner.

The food is so utterly delicious that you'll fall in love with it and all its attributes. On the day I dined at the restaurant there was
nothing less than very good food, but some dishes like the Striped Bass Pan Seared and Baked Apple is stellar. A perfectly seasoned and cooked seafood expression of fresh tender flesh served with steamed Risotto rice wrapped in Vietnamese rice paper on curry salsify sauce with a red currant chutney, and beautifully garnished with Rutabaga Rose and Hudson River Garlic Mustard Green Leaf. A Chef Novi delightful dish with exotic flair.

There is a good wine list with specialities in California wines, and a smart selection of Italian and French wines. But it could be improved upon
by a greater addition of top wines from Spain, Portugal, Chile, Argentina, and Morroco that would pair very well with the cuisine at the restaurant. I recommend the whites: Orvieto, TodiMaro 2005 and the Pinot Grigio, Casa Venezia 2007 both from Italy. And the Albarino, Rias Baixa Morgandio 2007 from Spain. And in the reds try the Merlot, Casa Venezia 2005 from Italy,and the Island Red, Whitecliff Vinyards 2006 form the Hudson Valley. Or the very summery Rose Gran Feudo, Julian Chivite 2005.

Depuy House offers some outstanding desserts that are delicious and soo fresh tasting. If you walk out without trying dessert--you'll be doing your taste buds an enormous disservice. I ended my dinner with a splendid and addictively refreshing
Chocolate Souffle. a rich and velvety, hot ganache of pure sweet chocolate delight on the tongue. Here is a flavorsome smooth souffle that shouts celebration. Or try a a delicious Old Fashion Bread Pudding with Sliced Peaches or the popular Chocolate Chip Sundae.

The Depuy Canal House is unpretentious in decor, but very serious about its cuisine as prepared by the venerable Chef John Novi, who balances classic takes on food with new forms of exotic flavors that mesmerize and seduce. The menu at the restaurant is a big expression of flavors. And diners can expect carefully prepared courses of pasta, vegetables, seafood, and wild game accented with global ingredients. Dining at Depuy House we feel the workings of a great chef here--when every morsel savored enhances the global connection, and understanding of food cultura and the joys of dining. Chef John Novi's culinary essence brings it all together, and the many global flavors of his food indelibly linger on in the mind and palate long after we end our dining adventure, and pleasure at his world famous restaurant. Rating ***** Excellent

Baron Corso de Palenzuela is an international food, wine, beer, and chocolate critic, a chef and connoisseur who has written extensively on international wine and cuisine. He resides in Virginia, New York, and Spain and can be reached at 845 706-1244

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