Thursday, September 9, 2010

Foster's Coach House Tavern
6411 Montgomery, Rt 9 Rhinebeck, N.Y 12572

Tel 845 876-8052, Fax: 876-0878

Hours: Tuesday--Sunday 11:00 A.M--11:00P.M

Good Olde Tavern Cuisine in Rhinebeck

Despite my love affair with tavern food, it is generally not a culinary venue that has excelled in offering sophisticated food. Tavern food throughout the world whether in Spain, Cuba, Greece, Africa, or South America or the United States is not pretentious. It is simple, hearty, delicious, and a very good value. I like that very much about tavern cuisine. Foster's Tavern in Rhinebeck around since 1890 offers top quality cuts of red meats, some grass fed options, and seafood as cooked as ordered and served with an array of sides, of mashed potatoes, spinach, steak fries, and sauteed mushrooms, that are wonderfully cooked and exceed expectation. Owner Phoebe Kirwood impresses her local customers with simple classics of seafood Jumbo Shrimp, and Sea Scallops, or dishes of London Broil, New York Sirloin, and Golden Fried Chicken, and fish entrees like King Salmon that are cooked masterfully by the talented Chef Luis Gijon,
with ten years at the helm who works at full trottle and executes each dish with precision and down to earth good flavors. This is everyday good eating of traditional tavern dining that should be considered and respected. Other standouts that Chef Gijon marvels us with include delicious and bountiful portions London Broil, of Breaded Veal Cutlet, Italian Chicken Parmesean , or a great tasting housemade Baked Lasagna with spicy sausage. And a classy Gazpacho soup. This irrisistible and impressive historical village landmark restaurant has had a few owners but has been going strong since 1965 under the Kirwood family ownership and does straightforward cooking at its best.

Phoebe Kirwood with over twenty years of experience in managing the restaurant, and her staff including Rebecca Rodriguez, with ten years, and Kathy Aron with over forty years as servers at Foster's have created a professional, hospitable and relaxed ambiance. Everytime I enter Foster's there is a good aura of a time long past in history. On entering the dining room, the decor is certainly sacrosant in the usual tavern manner of old dark wood and some polished brass and iron appointments and horse racing memorabilia which is tastefully put together. A handsome medium size bar attended by friendly mixologist John Varicchio is always packed with locals. The restaurant includes five distinct dining areas: a tap room, a comfy dark wood lounge with wooden banquets the resemble stalls, a back room more airy and with a view, a downstairs special events, clubby room, and a spacious outdoor patio for al fresco dining during the warm season with live entertainment on some weekends. Total seating capacity overall is about two hundred and twenty.

The evening I dined at Foster 's I ordered the New York Sirloin: Once I was seated, a glass of water, fresh bread and butter was brought promptly to my table. My order was taken. After a short wait, my entree arrived. The 120z. Sirloin steak was properly seasoned and grilled perfectly with a crusty char on the outside while mainting a lush, juicy and rosy rareness inside. It was caressed with sauteed mushrooms in a velvety sauce, and accompanied by housemade mashed potatoes and green beans that enhanced the presentation.The meal was served with a side salad of lettuce,carrots, red onions, and cherry tomatoes in a delicious tangyItalian dressing. It was a flavorsome meal. The wine I ordered, Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rose complemented the dining splendidly. The service was polite and competent.
Foster's carries good beers, the usual domestic ones, like Samuel Adams, and imported brands like Heineken, Corona, and Stella Artois. The wine list is modest. Try a glass of salmon Run Petit Noir, or the Salmon Run Chardonnay--Reisling. these wines are superb and sure to please.

Foster's also has some wonderful sandwiches all served with a salad or cup of soup, or side order of choice. Of the standard sandwiches "old Favorites" -four really standout for me. The Grilled Chicken Breast on a Frenh roll with fries and cole slaw is super good.
the tuna Salad on rye, with french fries, and Clam Chowder, the Roasted Turkey on wheat with potato salad, and bean soup, and the Chicken salad on french bread with Cole Slaw and vegetable soup. Any choice is a stupendous meal for the most reasonable price in town. In the dessert category, the Southern Pecan Pie I had with my dinner was super. This is the kind of dessert that no matter how full our bellies are, we want to devour it all. I ended my dinner with a very good cup of coffee.

Much of Foster's clientele are patrons who come back and again, like Al and Doris Zitz. who love the seafood and Italian entrees. In the essence of culinary tavern tradition, there is no lack of good eating at Foster's Tavern. Chef Gijon doesn't dissapoint. And much of Phoebe Kirwood's success as a restaurauteur is her devotion to her customers. And the staff is really like family, professional and dedicated team players that make the restaurant top notch in service and food. Foster's Coach House and Tavern is a very charming village culinary gem that always welcomes you in with open arms.

Rating ***** Very Good--Excellent.


Baron Corso de Palenzuela von Habsburg is an international food,wine,beer, and chocolate critic. A Chef and connoisseur who has written extensively on international cuisine. He resides in Virginia, New York, and Spain. He can be reached at 845-706-1244

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